The Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) was created to preserve the safety and integrity of fixed protection throughout central Arizona. Since its creation, the CABRP has replaced hundreds of worn and aged lead bolts and anchors.
The fixed anchors used to create most of the sport climbs in the US are made of non stainless steel. As such, they are subject to corrosion that weakens the anchors holding power. The non-stainless steel bolts throughout central Arizona have been exposed to environmental factors since the first day they were placed, and as such were expected to last about 20 years. That 20 years is up, and the lead bolts need to be replaced.
CABRP has taken on the challenge of replacing all of the popular routes in Queen Creek, the Mcdowell Mountains, and any areas that need replacing. All told, there are approximately 2,755 total routes throughout central Arizona. So that we don’t have to do this monumental effort again in 20 years, CABRP is replacing all bolts with corrosion-resistant materials. Working with the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), CABRP is placing stainless steel glue-in bolts and stainless steel expansion anchors specifically designed for the rigors of our sport. Many of these fixed anchors are actually smaller and less visible than the older equipment, yet they are generally 20-100% stronger than the older designs. Though there are many variables in the aging process of a climbing anchor, CABRP hopes to see 50+ years out of the newer equipment.
CABRP requests that all climbers establishing new routes use modern, stainless steel equipment that is specifically designed for climbing. This will assure that the new route stays safe well into the future, or that it doesn’t have to be replaced in 20 years. CABRP recognizes that this makes establishing a new route more expensive, but it is also the responsible way to protect future climbers and the precious resource that is our rock walls.
Atlantis: (All glue-ins)
Sir Charles - 5.10
Mondo Freako - 5.7
G-String - 5.8
Mickey Mouse - 5.7
Direct Start - 5.11b
See you try, see you fail - 5.11b
Ali Cat - 5.7 (anchors only)
Neptune - 5.10 (pitch 2 anchors and 1st 3 route bolts)
McDowell's: (Stainless steel 1/2" x 3" bolts, stainless steel hangers)
Hawk - 5.7 PG13
Energizer - 5.8
Gripple Variation - 5.10R
Face Value - 5.6
Susan's Stroll - 5.3 (anchors)
Brazilian Tenant Farmers - 5.5
Easy Street - 5.1
Arrowhead - 5.8
Pissed off - 5.8
Tumbling Dice - 5.10
Hanging Gardens - 5.5 (1st and 2nd pitch anchors)
Is there an area that is need of new hardware? Please let us know by using the contact form!